LUNIDOMUS

Lunigiana covers an area from the Apennines to the Magra river, belonging in part to Tuscany and in part to Liguria. It takes its name from the Luni, an Etruscan tribe of moon worshippers whose curiously appealing stele remain the symbol of this ancient land. The history of Lunigiana is one of passion; of intense creativity but also ferocious battles.

The nearby Gulf of Poets saw the Romantic poets Shelley and Byron set the artistic world on fire and follow in the Renaissance footsteps of Dante and Michelangelo.

Castles in Lunigiana During the Middle Ages, there were 160 castles in Lunigiana, only thirty of which have reached our times in a good state of preservation.

The historical origins of these castles date back to times when the Langobards dominated most of the Pianura Padana and, seeking an outlet on the Ligurian/Tuscan coast, they found in the Passo della Cisa the natural way to cross the Appennines. On the other hand, when Luni (which has disappeared) was a flourishing city and harbour, the Romans had already built solid defensive posts along the road which linked up Northern Lunigiana. On the traces of this Roman road the Langobards built the Via Francigena, for the control of which there was a bloody and ferocious struggle among the little feud . The most important castles in Lunigiana, including the castle of the Piagnaro in Pontremoli, the Rocca of Villafranca and the fortified village of Filetto, were built during this period. When the Malaspina played an import part in the politics of Lunigiana, they built a great number of castles, which were used as residences and defences of territory by the several branches of the family. Concerning this we must say that the Malaspinas followed rules which were quite different from those applied in other Italian feuds for the succession of the heirs to the feudal power: the property, the estates and the power were divided into equal parts among all sons, without a special treatment for the eldest one. That led to the formation of dozens of little feuds, each requiring a new castle, on the occasion of every succession. Thus many small (and picturesque) castles were built in Lunigiana, but at the cost of weakening the power of the family at each generation.

Lunigiana is the undiscovered northernmost tip of Tuscany and lies between the coastal province of Liguria to the west and the Apennine mountains to the north-east. To the south-east the region is dominated by the peaks of the Parco Alpi Apuane beyond which are the Renaisance Cities of Florence, Pisa and Lucca. This is an area of outstanding natural beauty dotted with ancient hill-top villagesand terraced olive groves. Not yet discovered by tourists the area is economically poor but rich in other ways. Here the pace is slow, the food and wine robust and the smiles as warm as the sunshine. Here the old-fashioned courtesies are observed and the stranger made welcome. Lunigiana is a veritable paradise for walkers, painters, photographers, and those who simply enjoy the pleasures of life, and is full of natural curiosities such as the caves near Equi Terme, site of the natural sulphur baths. There are also castles, churches, monuments and whole villages built before Columbus set sail for the New World. Names of once-mighty families such as the Medici and Malaspina are commemorated by the fountains, piazzas and palaces they left behind, and all of this is within an hour or so train ride or drive of their more famous cousins to the south - Florence, Pisa and Lucca. And if that is not enough there are festivals, street markets and palios a-plenty - often in medieval costume. The main town in the area is Aulla from which the Taverone and Aulella valleys radiate, the hillsides of which are covered with chestnut woods and high meadows. At the end of the Taverone valley the Lagestrello pass marks the route through into Parma Province, the source of the River Taverone and the end of the Crenale mountain ridge. Leading more directly east from Aulla the old Lucca road runs along the Aulella valley, through Casola and on into the Parco Alpi Apuane before turning south along the old pilgrim road to Lucca. Bordering Lunigiana to the west, past La Spezia and the famous pretty fishing villages of The Cinque Terre is the province of Liguria, with its sandy beaches and pleasant climate.

Aulla is the main commercial town in the area located at the A15 exit of the Parma-La Spezia motorway. Although not the prettiest of towns (the old town was destroyed by allied bombardments in the Second World War) it is being largely re-developed in modern Italian style. The town, which has a population of about twelve thousand, was born on the 27th of May 884 when the Marquis-Count of Tuscany, decided to build a church and an abbey at the point where the Aulella river flows into the larger Magra river.

Aulla is dominated by the Fortezza della Brunella, a large square fortress built in the 15th century. Now restored, the fortress can be reached in few minutes walk from the city centre and is the symbol of the town. The Fortezza della Brunella hosts the Lunigiana Natural Science Museum and is located in the middle of a beautiful park, with a view of the two rivers in the valley. Its strategic position at the foot of three important passes (Cisa, Cerreto and Lagastrello), and on the road to Casola and to the Garfagnana, made Aulla a central place for trade between the inland and the sea.

In the course of 11th and 12th centuries the Malaspina family and the Luni bishops competed over Aulla, until the former eventually succeeded. In 1522, the Malaspina family sold Aulla to Giovanni delle Bande Nere. For three years bloody fighting ensued until the Malaspina came back and took power again. The situation remained quiet until the eighteenth century, and Aulla could develop thanks to trade. In 1831 and 1849, Aulla took part in the famous riots that took place in the whole Italian peninsula; it then joined the newly born Regno d'Italia. In the following years Aulla developed further, thanks to the Parma-La Spezia railway and to the ever-increasing importance of the Cisa road - the old pilgrim road to Rome.

More recently, the motorway and a new railway station, continue to help Aulla to develop and grow as a thriving and lively town. The surrounding countryside is magnificent, and conveys the atmosphere of old times.

Some of the more interesting spots are: Caprigliola, whose city walls were built by the Medici; Bibola, with an old ruined castle; Albiano, rich in medieval houses; Olivola, in a dominating position, and Pallerone a, medieval village that hosts a mechanical "presepe" (Nativity representation) made in 1935.

Casola - a small hill village of about 1,500 people located in the higher part of the Aulella river, on a terrace surrounded by the Aulella and the Tassinaro streams. The community lies between the Lunigiana and the Garfagnana, and also between the Apuane Mountains and the Apennines. An important resource for this region has always been agriculture, specialised in cereals and in the exploitation of large chestnut forests. The area around Casola is still undeveloped and is superb walking country with stunning views over the surrounding valleys. The first settlements date from the Bronze Age when small villages were inhabited by tribes of Ligurian stock . During the Iron Age these villages grew and agriculture became more extensive.

The famous Statue Stele, mysterious stone statues representing stylized human bodies, come from this period. Not until the late Middle Ages did Casola develop as a little town and, to its misfortune, it attracted the interest of the surrounding towns. Casola has been little modified since the XV century; it still retains its characteristic fan shape, which starts from the tower and widens downhill towards the valley. Two doors, the Porta Soprana (Higher Door) and Porta Sottana (Lower Door) delimit the old town, while the tower is Casola's hub and symbol. The tower was erected in the Middle Ages; it was part of a stronghold and later, in 1745, was transformed in a bell tower. Palazzo Lombardelli, an elegant Renaissance palace, was built in 1544 by the Lombardelli family, one of the richest and most powerful in the region.

Today Casola is a small friendly place with a selection of shops including an excellent butcher and greengrocer, a bank, bar, and even a small petrol station and post office. There is a small (very small) market on Friday - not the one in the pictures which is the Fiera del Cucu. For more information click here. About a mile beyond Casola is little Pieve San Lorenzo where there is a train station for direct trains to Lucca and Pisa. There is also a good restaurant, Il Borghetto, whose owner speaks good English. The area around Casola is wonderful unspoiled countryside with high chestnut-covered hills dotted with ancient villages. A significant portion of the region belongs to the Apuane Park and is characterised by untouched countryside and green hills. Many paths cross this region, leading to little villages and ancient ruined castles; among these latter, the Malaspina castle and the Groppo San Pietro castle. Sightseeing on the Ligurian Riviera and in southern Tuscany.

The Levanto area is the perfect base for exploring and enjoying the delights of the Ligurian Riviera. The most obvious is a day (at least) exploring the colourful fishing villages of the Cinque Terre with their breathtaking coastal walks. Just to the north are several resort towns which repay a visit. The elegant little town of Chiavari has an incredibly beautiful cathederal whilst Portofino has a completely different charm. The ancient port city of Genoa has undergone a huge programme of restoration. The fabulous Palazzo Ducale has been restored to its former glory and the Old Port has been transformed and now includes the famous aquarium which attracts over one million visitors per year. La Spezia and Lerici (where Shelley and Byron lived) are just to the south and also deserve a visit. The south of Tuscany offers a completely different sightseeing experience. Here the sightseeing emphais is one art and architecture. The most famous sight, and one that you must not miss is of course the Duomo at Florence where you can climb to the very top of Brunelleschi's 15th century dome - and don't miss Ghiberti's bronze doors of the baptistery. Another sight not to be missed is the Campo in Siena where the Palio is run. San Gimignano on the other hand has a different feel. Small, quiet and very old San Gimignano, still guarded by its ancient towers, should be seen at leisure. Make time to see the figures of the Virgin Annunciate and the Angel Gabriel carved by Jacopo della Quercia in 1421.